More boom from my box!
From Mod Mania
Then idea behind adding a capacitor to a car audio setup is to cope with the demand the additional audio equipment puts on a cars electrical system. If there is no capacitor installed, whilst driving at night you will notice that the lights dim when the sub woofer is activated. Adding a capacitor stiffens the system to differing degrees, depending on the rating of the capacitor. This then allows the sub to run at a higher power output without killing you car battery (usually around the $100 mark a piece.)
During this mod I upgrade certain features of my sub enclosure such as:
High quality internal wire Alloy sheet backing plate for hinged location Easy access connection for the input to the sub speaker
Time taken
8 hours
Tools used
Phillips head screw driver Wire cutters Crimper Wire connections Soldering Iron Solder 4 Gauge wire 8g Phillips head 40mm screws Speaker wire Alloy sheet 2mm thick
The Mod
A number of the tools and items to install.
Additional gain control mounted into factory dash insert.
The top of the capacitor has 2 power input/outputs and 2 Earth power input/outputs.
The sub with amp fitted to side pre capcaitor install
I have fitted a handle similar to that used in speaker boxes in the music industry to allow me easier access to my spare wheel.
I also fitted a lock to the other side of the hinges, this allow me to secure my sub and gain access when required.
Undoing the existing wiring requires steps to be followed as to not blow a fuse (short circuit the system)
I wired up the capacitor to make sure that it would work once installed.
I played around with a few ways to mount the capacitor to the sub with minimal space taken up and allow the voltage display to be seen when the rear seat is folded down.
I removed the sub speaker and speaker input to check the condition of the wiring in the box. Once I had removed it I found that existing wire was of a low grade.
I removed the existing wire and replaced it with a high quality speaker wire to aid in delivery of signal with minimal delay and interference. I customized the wiring to allow for removal of the speaker with ease.
I also added speaker wire to allow me to connect the input signal to the subwoofer without having to lift the sub every time. I ran enough length to end right near where the amplifier was fitted to the sub.
I reinforced the area to which the hinged system was the system was attached.
I made a separator for the two 4 gauge wires to sit in to allow extra space and not interference. I used some left over wood from the workshop and a pencil to measure up and cut sections out to fit.
My amplifier allows for the power of 2 channels to be fed into one this is called bridging and is an option around buying a mono block amp (single channel amp for sub speakers)
Once I had fitted the amp and capacitor onto the sub enclosure I chose to connect the system again and check that it is working pre-final install.
[[Image:subfinal.JPG|480 px]
Sub setup post install
