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Sound proofing Car and New sound system

From Mod Mania

Dynamat is a type car sound proofing mat that consists of a Butly tar-like rubber and is about 2mm thick, it has foil on one side and a strong adhesive on the other.

Dynamat Car sound proofing.

This is the "Mega" pack of dynamat i bought.

This is my car a 2001 Ford laser Lxi.

As soon as i got the car i got a tyre and wheel package, this has significantly improved the handling.

The First car door to be dynamatted.

Cover taken off the car door

You can see there is fine dust on the inside of the door, this needs to be cleaned off with metho/kero so the dynamat can stick.

The Inside is dust free

The electric window motor is the bottle shape, the cables in front operate the windows.

dynamat works best when applied with no air bubbles under it,as you can see it takes a while to prefect.

It may seem a strange idea but putting a strip of duct tap over a dynamat seam protects it even further from water damage.

Throughout the mod i struggled to keep the cats out so evently i just gave up because i would need to vacuum the car after anyway.

here is the other front door dis-assembled. You can see the outline of black sticky tar this holds the protective plastic on and together act as a water proofer.

Scrubbing the surface that the dynamat will stick to with Kerosene.

Pushing the dynamat sheets onto the inside of the door

Here is the plastic that waterproofs to protect the electric window electrics.

Vacuming the floor stops some of the dirt from being transferred from the carpet to the floor underneath.

Here is the first of the floor if you look up just below the gear stick is a bubbly greyish matt, this is the original sound proofing that is put on by the manufacturer.

Do not be deceived this took ages! the floor on the left side took almost a whole day.

by now i have gotten much more used to the way dynamat behaves and have started to perfect applying it with no bubbles

I had a hard time getting the front driver side seat out because the bolts were stripped from someone that used a air wrench in the past.

Here is a better example of the sound proofing the manufacturer has put in.

Basically the same concept applies , its just a process of cutting to size and pushing it down,this takes a long time but the bond is very strong.

Vacumed the carpet, put the foam back in and then the carpet on top.

You will notice behind the speaker is a MDF insert, i had to make this up because of the strange shaped speaker hole. This is important because otherwise the speaker can rattle.

Decided to upgrade the sound system as well so had to rip the door apart again. This was much quicker because i knew where the clips and screws were.

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Here are the old speakers the rear 6X9s had quite a lot of water and sun damage.

This is the old head unit, by upgrading this i will be able to plug a mp3 or ipod in.

The boot is very important because all that is separating the road noise from it and the main cabin is a spare Tyre and a thin bit of tin.

The inner wheel arch also transmits a lot of road noise through the suspension. This is also due to the rims i have on the car, by having a lower profile Tyre a higher road noise at higher speeds results.

I actually tested this blue foam out on the highway and it was more effective to not have it under the spare tyre but around the rim.

The MDF is to make the subwoofer enclosure.To buy a sub enclosure is about $100 so i decided to build my own all up it cost $18.

The subwoofer came with diagrams in the booklet for the most efficient layout, this was very useful and saved a lot of trouble calculating correct length and volumes

Holes are pre drilled and counter sunk to avoid the mdf from separating or cracking around the screw.

A holesaw and Jigsaw made light work for cutting the sub woofer hole.

when the hole was cut i silicone all the internal corners to increase strength and efficiency.I then sprayed it with some high temp paint because that was the only colour that i had lying around.

Here is the amplifier, i wired this up my self and saved about $80

Direct your attention to the top right had corner around the batterie this where the subs power cable and fuse will run.

As you can see the subs power cable has a huge fuse as compared to a cars normal fuses.

The black split hose takes the subs power to the batterie which connects directly to the negative terminal. The duct tape simply holds the sleeve over the power cable for more protection.

Here is the sub fully installed and working great! just need to tidy the wires up

The amplifier must be mounted flat to allow the internal fans to cool properly failuer to do tis can mean burning out your amp!

Here is the wiring for the new head unit all

Now i can finally plug my ipod in

Because of the new smaller head unit i needed to buy a spacer to cover the hole, this is also really handy because it holds stuff.

Thanks for looking at my mod project! all in all it took about three and a half full days to complete but the result has been well worth it. Road noise has reduced significantly and now i hear my stereo better. Its awesome.